Gruyère

Named after the town of Gruyère in Switzerland, the cheese earned AOC (now AOP) status in 2001.

When young, Gruyère has a nutty and mild flavor and is creamy in texture. With age, it develops a stronger, funkier barnyard flavor and becomes granular and crystal-like, similar to Parmigiano-Reggiano. A super versatile cheese, Gruyère is perfect in quiche, essential in fondue, necessary on a croque monsieur or madame and, lest we forget, mandatory in onion soup. In fact, Gruyère, (although some prefer Comté) is what gives the peasant onion soup famous in the markets of Les Halles the name gratinée.

Gratinée or soupe a l’ongion is a staple at Paris’ Au Pied de Cochon. Founded in 1947, the restaurant is located in the heart of the city’s Les Halles quartier and was the city’s first 24/7 restaurant, which, until COVID hit, had never closed its doors. Famous among politicians, celebrities, intellectuals, artists, writers and musicians, Au Pied de Cochon has hosted many including Dali, Hitchcock, Mitterand, Bardot and Gainsbourg to name only a few. 

Thinly slice two to three large, white or yellow onions, two medium leeks and 2 to 3 medium shallots, place in heavy-bottomed Dutch oven with a generous bit of sea salt and gently sauté in butter until golden and caramelized. Be careful not to burn. Pour in a good glug of cognac and the same amount of dry sherry and deglaze pan. Reduce until alcohol has evaporated. Add a generous few quarts of homemade beef or chicken stock and a sprig or two of thyme and cracked white pepper. Gently cook until the flavors have melded. Taste and correct seasoning. 

In the meantime, slice a day-old baguette on the bias and grate heaping portions of Gruyère. Ladle soup into oven-proof crocks or ramekins, top with a few slices of bread and finish with a very generous amount of the grated Gruyère. Place under broiler until the cheese turns dark golden and is molten and bubbly. It’s a good idea to put the crocks or ramkeins on a sheet pan as there will certainly be spillage. 

Enjoy with a glass of lightly chilled white or a cellar-temperature red wine.